Understanding RC Damper (Part 2)

Hai! Kembali lagi ke bagian kedua. Dan yang ingin saya bahas untuk kali ini adalah seputar kompresi & rebound. Di akhir topik ini, saya ingin anda melontarkan pendapat anda mengenai topik yang dibahas. Tuangkan apa yang anda pikirkan.
Hi! Back to round 2. This time, let's talk about compression & rebound. At the end of this post, i want your participation, shares on what are you thinking about this topic. Don't hesitate to give me your opinion, let's learn together.

Shock pada RC maupun mobil asli itu sama, menggunakan piston dan minyak sebagai medianya. Sewaktu lower arm naik keatas, piston shock juga bergerak menekan minyak ke sil shock. Karena ada tekanan dari piston, minyak akan berpindah melalui lubang yang ada dipiston. Semakin banyak jumlah lubangnya, jumlah minyak yang berpindah semakin cepat, volumenya lebih banyak, dan gerakan piston menjadi lebih ringan, begitu juga sebaliknya.
RC shock and real car shock absorber shares the same method, using piston and oil as medium. When lower arm goes up, piston in shock cylinder pressing the oil against the shock bladder. Since piston pushing to the bladder, some of the oil will escape through orifices in the piston. More orifices, oil transfer will be faster, more volume transfered, and quicker piston movement, vice versa.


Setelah piston mencapai titik kompresi maksimum, piston tersebut harus kembali lagi ke posisi awal, inilah yang disebut dengan rebound. Pada proses rebound, banyak yang mengaitkan dengan penggunaan spring, karena pemahaman umum yang dipakai adalah ketika shock melakukan kompresi, seluruh energi terserap di spring dan ketika spring sudah mencapai batasnya, dia akan mengembalikan seluruh energi yang dia serap dengan melakukan kontraksi atau rebound agar spring kembali ke ukuran awal. Dan bagaimana dengan shock? Shock berfungsi memperlambat momentum dari spring.
After the piston reaching maximum compressing point, it must be return to its intitial position, that is rebound. Common sense used by many RC drifter, that rebound correlates with spring. Whenever shocks compress, its spring does absorb energy from bump, and release the same amount of energy to kick back to it's initial position. And what does shocks do? Just slowing the momentum of the spring.

Sampai titik ini tidak ada yang salah. Tapi, pernahkah anda mendengar istilah full rebound? half rebound? dan no rebound? Saya akan bahas ketiga metode ini di bagian 3. Pertanyaan diskusi kali ini adalah, dari 3 metode itu, mana yang sering anda pakai dan kenapa anda pakai metode itu?
Up to this point, everyone's argument is right. But, have you heard full rebound? half rebound? and no rebound? I will explained it on part 3. Discussion time! From those 3 method, which way you prefer to use and what's your thinking about that method?

New Setup enRoute JXR012 HT

Well, we're back here with new setup for enRoute JXR012 HT owner. This time, i've upgraded original shocks with Yokomo shocks and a complete spring set. Built it with my no. 1 favourite shock oil, Team Associated oil 40W on the front and my second favourite, Muchmore oil #200 in the rear arm.

Front shocks matched with Yokomo stiffest spring (orange color code). Front ride height adjusted to 5mm and no droop. What do you think about my Silver-Black combination? Front wheels using 7mm offset, 4mm wheel hub, and extra 1mm spacer. Roll center box stock. Front camber -8 degree with box stock toe out.

Since this kit was 012 with upgraded HT chassis, it have more grip since the chassis has more flex so i have to make the damping quicker and rebound faster. Yokomo green color spring was used (1 step softer than orange). For more car angle, i replace rear front toe block from #0 to #1, so the rear toe became 2-degree out (box stock 3-degree). Same 5mm ride height with no droop. Rear camber adjusted to -4 degree.

Do you like the upgraded front chassis stiffener? From black carbon to black anodized alloy.

Since JXR016 has progressive caster which adds more caster while the steering maxing out and proved to be more grip added to the front wheel, so i have to add 2mm kickups which provide more bite while the steering pushed to the max.

Change the pinion to 21T against stock 92T spur. Why? because there is new motor has been used. And still sporting same CS ratio.

This is my new electronics. Imported straight from japan. Too bad, only Neon-S 5.5 available. Rated at 60A (similar with Hobbying Xerun 60A) with no turbo, paired with enRoute ZR-S 7.5T motor makes it pretty decent performance with decent price. And, the hardest part with this enRoute thingy is the manual (download only) comes in japanese language. Credit to Mr. Ando from Tetsujin that help me translate the manual for Futaba transmitters.  

My trusty power source. Zippy 50C lipoly.

I know it's weird to when you see this :) You can add more weight upfront to suits your driving style. To me, 10grams is perfect. Well, that's all my setup for now. Good luck testing and trying. And keep drifting fun, because drift must be crazy! (escpecially the drifters LOL)

RC DRIFT Setup 101

Setting RC Drift susah-susah gampang. Susah di awal, gampang di akhir (setelah paham apa yang harus di rubah). Banyak konsep setting yang beredar karena RC Drift tidak memiliki acuan dalam menciptakan mobil RC Drift yang ideal, karena tiap drifter pasti memiliki style yang unik dalam drifting. Untuk mempersingkat dan mempermudah, pembahasan hanya di fokuskan pada grip. 

DRIFT Setup 101 a la VDFlab:


Bagaimana menambah grip?
1.      Ride height semakin pendek/ceper
2.      Sudut shock semakin tidur/rebah
3.      Spring semakin empuk
4.      Oli shock semakin kental
5.      Berat chassis
6.      Camber mendekati nol


Bagaimana mengurangi grip?
1.      Ride height semakin tinggi
2.      Sudut shock semakin tegak
3.      Spring semakin keras
4.      Oli shock semakin encer
5.      Chassis semakin ringan
6.      Camber semakin ekstreme


Efek Grip lebih banyak didepan?
1.      Respon steering lebih baik, namun pantat lebih ringan.
2.      Manuver switchback bisa dilakukan tanpa mengurangi throttle
3.      Cocok untuk sirkuit teknikal dengan lebar sirkuit kecil.
4.      Butuh sedikit usaha mempertahankan steering.
5.      Resiko spin-out sangat besar jika tidak mampu mengimbangi bukaan steering dan throttle
6.      Cocok untuk tipikal throttle halus dan di urut.


Efek Grip lebih banyak dibelakang?
1.      Respon throttle lebih baik, namun bagian depan lebih under.
2.      Manuver switchback harus menggunakan brake atau throttle kecil.
3.      Cocok untuk sirkuit lebar dan besar berkarakter high speed.
4.      Mudah untuk mempertahankan steering.
5.      Mudah untuk melakukan attack jika leader lebih pelan.
6.      Cocok untuk tipikal throttle kasar atau di pompa.

Selamat mencoba dan happy tail-sliding!!